Ryokan Ichikawa — A Long-Established Traditional Inn with 400 Years of History and Fine Cuisine in Oi-juku on the Nakasendō - Japan Travel Sights

Located in Ena City, Gifu Prefecture, in Oi-juku along the historic Nakasendō, Ryokan Ichikawa is a venerable inn that traces its roots back to the Edo-period travelers’ lodge “Kadoya,” boasting a proud 400-year history.

The lobby with its traditional irori hearth and the refined Japanese atmosphere throughout the inn gently soothe visitors’ hearts, evoking a nostalgic sense of travel.

The warm hospitality handed down through generations of landladies (okami) has long captivated countless travelers.

400 Years of Tradition — The Lineage of Japan’s Oldest Travelers’ Lodge, “Kadoya”

The origins of Ryokan Ichikawa date back to the era of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, in the Edo period.
At Oi-juku, the 46th post town along the sixty-nine stations of the Nakasendō linking Edo and Kyoto, the first proprietor, Ichikawa Saemon, opened the travelers’ lodge “Kadoya.”

Oi-juku thrived as a bustling hub for pilgrims heading to Ise Shrine or Zenkoji Temple, as well as merchants from Owari. In the late Edo period, the bridal procession of Imperial Princess Kazunomiya also passed through here, earning the route the nickname “Hime Kaidō” (Princess Highway).

Even as the Edo period ended and many hatago (inns) disappeared, Kadoya survived into the Meiji era, when it was renamed Ryokan Ichikawa. It continues to this day as one of the oldest surviving hatago in Japan, faithfully carrying on its lineage.

Guest Rooms — Traditional Sukiya-Style Japanese Spaces

At Ryokan Ichikawa, rooms follow the classic Japanese style: tatami floors and futons for sleeping.
These serene sukiya-zukuri Japanese rooms cater to a wide range of guests, from families and couples to business travelers and solo visitors. Guests can also enjoy tranquil moments gazing at the garden greenery from their rooms.

Room Types

• Traditional Japanese Rooms with Garden View (1st floor)

• Size: 6–14 tatami mats
• Capacity: Up to 4 guests (depending on room type)
• Features: Quiet rooms overlooking the garden, offering a special atmosphere with seasonal scenery
• Number: 6 rooms
• Facilities: Sink, no bath/toilet

• 6-Tatami Japanese Rooms (2nd floor / town side or warehouse side)

• Size: 6 tatami mats
• Capacity: 1 guest
• Number: 2 rooms
• Features: Perfect for a peaceful solo stay, with views of either town streets or the kura storehouse

• 8-Tatami Japanese Rooms (2nd floor)

• Size: 8 tatami mats
• Capacity: 2 guests
• Number: 2 rooms
• Features: Ideal for couples or friends, offering a simple yet comfortable stay

• 12-Tatami Japanese Room (2nd floor)

• Size: 12 tatami mats
• Capacity: 3 guests
• Number: 1 room
• Features: Spacious, perfect for families or small groups, providing a luxurious time relaxing on tatami

Guest Room Facilities & Amenities

• Total: 10 Japanese-style rooms
• Standard: Air conditioning/heating, TV, satellite channels, empty fridge, free Wi-Fi
• Amenities: Hand towel, bath towel, yukata, feather futon, toothbrush & toothpaste, shampoo & conditioner, body soap, hair dryer, cotton swabs, comb/brush, razor, shower cap
• Shared: Some rooms with bath/toilet, all with sinks

The sukiya design and garden views convey the very spirit of the hatago, offering warmth and tranquility rather than luxury.

Cuisine — Kaiseki Meals Crafted with Local Bounty and Heartfelt Care

Meals at Ryokan Ichikawa highlight the seasonal ingredients nurtured by Ena’s natural surroundings, prepared in the method that best suits each ingredient.

The head chef carefully selects local blessings from mountains, rivers, and farmland, creating inventive kaiseki dishes that balance tradition with modern flair.

A special highlight is the macrobiotic kaiseki, devised by the 16th okami. Incorporating brown rice and vegetarian dishes without animal products or refined sugar, it offers a wholesome dining experience, particularly popular among health-conscious guests and women.

Dinner

Guests enjoy kaiseki meals in private dining rooms.

• Seasonal Kaiseki: ¥7,000
• Hida Beef Courses (shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, or tile-grilled): from ¥12,600
• Mountain Feast Course: from ¥12,600

Example dishes:
Appetizers (Porotan chestnuts, millet wheat gluten dengaku, sake lees pickles), sashimi (tuna, amberjack, ajime pepper konnyaku), grilled dish (Spanish mackerel with yuzu marinade), steamed dish (dobin mushi), fried dish (shrimp rolled in yuba), freshly cooked Ena Koshihikari rice, desserts (chestnut pudding, agar jelly).

Macrobiotic Kaiseki

Centered on whole grains, local vegetables, and seaweed: dishes like avocado & fresh yuba carpaccio, soy-milk gratin, and lily bulb dumplings fried in pinecone style showcase creative cuisine beyond traditional Japanese fare.
The meal concludes with brown rice and miso soup made with vegetarian broth — praised as food that “nourishes both body and soul.”

Local Sake of Higashi-Mino

The inn offers a wide selection of regional sake brands such as Onna Joshu, Sanzen-zakura, Enasan, Kozaemon, and Kasagitsuru, including seasonal limited editions.

• Tasting set (3 kinds): ¥1,500

Breakfast

Guests start the day with the local specialty hōba miso breakfast, accompanied by grilled fish and freshly cooked Ena Koshihikari rice.

Facilities — A Harmony of Historic Hatago Spirit and Modern Comforts

The inn combines 400 years of history with modern conveniences, serving not only travelers but also as a venue for banquets, gatherings, and memorial services.

Lobby & Front Desk

Stepping inside, guests are greeted by a calming Japanese-style lobby featuring an irori hearth — the inn’s symbol of hospitality. A shop corner offers local souvenirs.

Grand Hall (2nd floor)

• Size: 80 tatami mats
• Capacity: up to 100 seats
  This spacious hall with warm wood interiors is ideal for banquets, celebrations, or memorial services, with flexible seating layouts.

Cyclist & Parking Facilities
Ena is popular with cyclists and bikers. The inn provides covered parking and cycle racks, making it a welcoming base for cycling or touring trips.

Baths — Relaxing Soaks with Seasonal Views

The inn features a large communal bath and family baths, where travelers can unwind while gazing at trees that change colors with the seasons.

Large Bath
Spacious enough to stretch out comfortably, it offers a tranquil, Japanese-style setting. Guests can enjoy different views morning and evening.

Access — Convenient Base for Exploring Ena

• Address: 95-1 Oi-cho, Ena City, Gifu Prefecture 509-7201
• Tel: 0573-25-2191
• Check-in: 16:00
• Check-out: 10:00
• Access: 7-minute walk from JR Ena Station on the Chūō Main Line / 5-minute drive from Ena IC on the Chūō Expressway

Easily accessible by train or car, the inn is also an ideal base for visiting Ena Gorge or Iwamura Castle Town.

Nearby Attractions

Historic Streets of Oi-juku

As the 46th post town on the Nakasendō, Oi-juku once bustled with pilgrims and merchants. Walking its preserved streets today reveals latticed houses and the distinctive masugata road layout, perfect for history and town-walking enthusiasts.

Ena Gorge

A scenic valley shaped by the erosion of the Kiso River, famous for dramatic rock formations and seasonal landscapes. The best views come from the sightseeing boats, showcasing cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, vibrant autumn leaves, and snowy scenes in winter.

Iwamura Castle Town

Known as the “Castle of the Lady Lord,” this castle town retains Edo-period layouts and historic houses. Its main street is designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Local cuisine and sake breweries add to the charm.

Conclusion — A Stay Steeped in History and Hospitality

With its 400-year legacy, the warmth of its irori hearth, the care of its landladies, and its exquisite kaiseki and macrobiotic cuisine, Ryokan Ichikawa continues to enchant visitors.

Here, history and modern comfort blend into a truly special experience.